Tag: china

The Perks of Being a Wallflower

On By kyndarisLeave a comment

The last two days in Shenzhen were a tour de force of catch-ups. Mostly with classmates my mother had known back in her university days, or with family friends. We also had to pick my grandmother up from the airport after she was flown in from Urumqi (where she stayed with her son for a vast majority of the trip) before prepping our own bags for the return flight back to Australia.

As is almost always the case, my mother (and, to an extent, my grandmother) are the shining stars of the family. Extroverts to their core, they know people from all walks of life. And when they reunite with those they haven’t seen for years, it’s an explosion of chatter and reminisces of the past.

I am, of course, always the stranger on the outside peering in through the window. Unable to penetrate the shared experiences they have.

Of course, being the introvert that I am, it’s no real bother to me. In fact, as I’ve grown older, I’ve come to appreciate not being in the limelight and have found ways to keep myself entertained even as my mother and grandmother bask in the attention of others. For example, reading Caitlyn x Vi fanfiction on my phone. Or scanning the headlines to see what new Hell the world might have found itself in.

So it was on the bright Thursday morning, my mother and I (along with her best friend from university) headed to Shenzhen Museum in the Futian District. Though we could have taken the metro, my mother’s friend decided going via rideshare would be both more economical and time efficient. We also wouldn’t have to deal with all the pesky line changes.

Once we arrived, and having reunited my mother with her two other friends, it was like the decades since they had last each other were nonexistent. The four of them caught up with each other’s lives as we waited for the museum to open. I kept myself apart, wanting to see how the fanfiction I was reading would pan out and mostly being invisible lest I be treated like a six-year-old instead of the thirty-something I actually.

As soon as the clock struck 10 AM, we headed into the museum proper. Unfortunately, despite its size, much of it was cordoned off. Whether it was for an event or due to renovations, I could not say. Still, we enjoyed our time going through the exhibits. The first two on ground floor were devoted to wildlife across the world. Eagerly, I snapped photos of a polar bear, hyenas, moose, porcupines and all manner of wolves. There was even a honey badger!

The second floor had exhibits detailing the history of Shenzhen and the various ethnic minorities that had called Guangdong province home. As someone who considers themself a student of history, it was interesting to read up about the intersectionality of multiple cultures and ethnic minorities. From those from Canton to the Hakka, and then to the Boat Dwellers.

Their unique cultures all had a hand in shaping the traditions and culture inherent in Guangdong province. More importantly, it speaks to how society develops over time and can learn to incorporate aspects of various lifestyles as part of the whole.

Interestingly, though the Boat Dwellers were once considered ‘lesser’ and nicknamed ‘sea gypsies,’ they have since been legally acknowledged and their civil rights and status are now equal to those who live on land. This has granted them additional protection and care.

From the early roots of Guangdong province, there was also an exhibit on the history of Shenzhen and how the city became the flourishing metropolis it is today following the policy of Reform and Opening-up.

Designated as one of the earliest special economic zones in China, Shenzhen rapidly developed and urbanised into the Silicon Valley of China. Home to various firms and large corporations, skyscrapers dot the skyline. And while it does not have the history of the likes of Hong Kong, it is still a place many young people flock to for job opportunities.

Even now Shenzhen is still developing – becoming a powerhouse in innovation and technology.

But the history of Shenzhen, at least at the museum, would not have been complete without an acknowledgement to Deng Xiaoping after he became the leader of China in 1978. As Chairman, he set about overhauling China’s infrastructure and political system, allowing China to modernise after what many would describe as disruptive years during Mao’s reign.

After we had gone through the entirety of Shenzhen’s history, we headed to the nearby Book City. A series of large book shopping malls in close proximity to each other, it is considered one of the largest bookstores in the world – hosting multiple restaurants and other non-book related shops.

Of note is the Book Bar. Open 24 hours, it serves as a refuge for anyone wanting to cram an assignment or even a place to rest. And who wouldn’t, surrounded by all those books? To my disappointment, actual English titles were few and far between and I was unable to pick up a stray holiday book to keep me company (that said, I was still reading The Constant Gardener by John Le Carre).

We had lunch in one of the restaurants and I took some time to peruse the shelves as my mother chatted with her old friends. Including another of her old classmates who had just flown into Shenzhen from Kashi (also known as Kashgar) in Xinjiang. A lecturer at university, he had also written books on key economic policies.

It was during this meeting of the minds that my mother learned my grandmother’s flight from Urumqi was delayed. As a consequence, she cancelled the dinner she had originally planned and we joined her classmate later at Baidu International Building (a search engine most of China uses as Google is blocked). The other guests in attendance, to our chagrin, were his many students.

To say it was an awkward affair is an understatement.

Thankfully, we did not stay long. It wasn’t long before my mother and I were headed to Shenzhen airport to pick up my grandmother (and to check-in at the Hyatt Regency situated right outside the airport.

The second day was a quiet affair. I spent of it playing Owlboy as we waited for our evening flight back to Australia. At around 11:30, more friends of the family (ones my mother and grandmother knew back in Xinjiang and who are complete strangers to me) came to visit from Zhuhai. After they’d chatted, we headed over to Hyatt Place, located on the opposite side of the airport, to have lunch with another family friend.

Before too long, we’d packed up the rest of our bags and headed to the airport proper (a short walk across a pedestrian bridge away). Once again, I got to enjoy the luxuries bestowed upon me as someone seated in business class. Yet despite the ability to lie down, I slept poorly during the flight and resorted to watching a few films (Paddington 2 and The Greatest Showman) to pass the time.

It was 6:23 AM when we landed back in Sydney, Australia. And I, for one, was glad to be back on home soil.

Though China remains the land where my family is from, it’s Australia I’ve come to love and feel most comfortable in. More importantly, Australia is where my friends and those who matter to me are. While it does have its faults (there are times I wish it would be more progressive in its social policies, for if it aped those in the Nordic countries, we might have less of an issue with recidivism and high prison populations), there’s a familiarity and freedom to living here.

That said, the prospect of returning to the office the day after next filled me with dread. Why had I chosen not to take a few days extra off work?

And so ended my visit to see my relatives, and to enjoy a little fun along the way. What started as a summer holiday was now well and truly over (and thank goodness for that. The humidity was an absolute killer).

Rush Hour

On By kyndarisLeave a comment

Hong Kong. A bustling port city that was once ceded to the British before its return to China in 1997 has always been a place I’ve romanticised in my head. Especially with the amount of movies that have used it as a backdrop. Then, of course, there was Sleeping Dogs, a video game where one played as Wei Shen, undercover cop, and was able to run around a digital version of Hong Kong for several hours on end.

Originally a farming and fishing village, the Hong Kong we know now is one of the most significant financial centres and commercial ports in the whole world. While some of its lustre has since faded, it still stands as a symbol of all that came before.

After an exhausting day out in Hong Kong Disneyland, followed by us scrambling to reach the accommodation we booked, the day before, my mother and I woke late. Though we would be decamping from Hong Kong and be returning to Shenzhen by late evening, there was still plenty of time for us to explore the city that had once captured my imagination like no other (besides, Shenzhen was only a short fifteen minute ride via high speed train).

Of course, wishing to start the morning on the right foot, and with no breakfast included for our hotel stay, the two of us headed to a nearby cafe called NOC Whampoa Garden. I ordered a hot chocolate and a pulled pork sando. My mother, on the other hand, went with a ham and cheese sando and a cappucino with one sugar.

But what amused me was the fact the menu did not sport an Americano but rather offered Long Black. It made me wonder if the owner, or chef, was Australian or had visited Australia. While reddit would have me believe there are slight differences, I, as someone who is not a coffee afficionado believe they’re the same thing. After all, I’m not tempted to get one either way.

Hot chocolate every day, all day. As my friends would know.

Once we’d finished up, we returned to the the Harbour Grand Kowloon to finish our usual morning ablutions before checking out, our overnight bags slung over our shoulders.

Before heading out, though, we exchanged some renminbi my mother had into Hong Kong dollars. Then it was off to Whampoa metro station. But not before we paid a brief visit to one of my favourite stores in the entire world. I mean, who can forget the catchy tune? I know bleachpanda would never. Not with me constantly singing it during our trip to Japan.

Yes, that’s right. DON QUIJOTE! Or, I suppose: Don Don: Donki!

After my mother picked up a few five-toed socks, and I had a glance at what they in stock, we headed to the station proper and set out for our first actual tourist site of the day: Victoria Harbour. Separating the island of Hong Kong from the Kowloon Peninsula, Victoria is both a major trading hub and a tourist attraction for those in Hong Kong.

My mother and I started off at the Avenue of Stars – taking our time to meander along the waterfront and taking photos of both the island of Hong Kong on the opposite shore and taking a peek at the handprints set, not on the footpath, but rather the handrail. There was even a facsimile of Bruce Lee – an icon in kungfu films of old.

From the Avenue of Stars, we walked past the Hong Kong Space Museum and the Hong Kong Cultural Centre before rounding the bend to take pictures of the Former Kowloon-Canton Railway Clock Tower. As the Ocean Terminal shopping centre was close by, I also took a gander at the Pop Mart within (purchasing two more Digimon fridge magnets along with two of Monster x One Piece blind boxes).

Yes. Despite all my protestations, I, too, have fallen into the trap that is the blind box market. And no, it’s not gambling addiction. I can stop. I have stopped.

Well, unless there are Disney Lorcana cards. But that’s neither here nor there. And booster packs AREN’T blind boxes. Yes, I can’t see what cards I’ll get but…

Hey. Wait. Where are you taking me?

Unhand me you buffoons!

Sorry. Where was I? Ah, yes. That’s right. Hong Kong.

Once I’d indulged my proclivity for not-gambling, my mother and I took a taxi over to Hong Kong so we could a tram up towards Victoria Peak (or as close as we could. Alas, we did not get to frolic in the garden). Up the funicular railway climbed. And if I thought I’d managed to escape the insidious influence of Disney, I would have been sorely disappointed for the tram itself had Mickey and the gang both at the stations as well as within the tram itself.

And what a sight it was to see the funicular climb up t the mountain until it reached The Peak Tower | Sky Terrace 428. Given we’d bought the combo ticket, my mother and I took a gander up on the roof – snapping photos left, right and centre as we looked out over Hong Kong and back over Kowloon.

We had lunch in the nearby shopping complex: The Peak Galleria. Or, it should be rightly said, I had lunch. Mother wasn’t feeling all that hungry. Worse, she was terse to the staff at Asam Chicken Rice because they had no free wifi. I tried to calm her down but to no avail. Instead, I quietly finished off my lunch before offering my apologies to the staff when I paid them later.

Then it was back down the mountain.

Before we did, however, I paid a visit to the local Messina. Unlike the stores in Australia, it had a location specific: Egg Tart flavour. Knowing it wouldn’t meet my lofty expectations abut not wanting to miss this opportunity to try something a little bit different, I went and bought a scoop to try – sharing it with my mother.

Back down the funicular we went.

As we wandered towards the central business district of Hong Kong, my mother wanted to take a ride on the unique trams found only in Hong Kong. Narrow and featuring double decks, it was certainly an experience to ride on them. We didn’t stay long, on them, however, as we quickly disembarked about three stops along the ride (not that we could have ridden them too far if we wanted to keep within reach of key tourist sites).

Off we hopped, right in the centre of Hong Kong, before speeding over to visit a bustling shopping street known commonly as Stone Slabs Street for the uneven granite stone steps it has. Lined with cheap market stalls, we took a quick look before heading further along Pottinger Street and then taking a right turn onto Hollywood Road to visit Man Mo temple.

The temple was built approximately between 1847 and 1862 by wealthy Chinese merchants to worship the God of Literature and the God of Martial Arts. Its structure is a two-hall-three-bay fronted by two granite drum platforms. Following traditional architecture layout, the rear hall housing the altars of the deities is also higher than the front hall, which are separated by a courtyard.

In 1908, the temple was officially entrusted to Tung Wah Hospital. Every ear, the Board of Directors congregate for the Autumn Sacrificial rites to pay homage to the gods as well as pay for prosperity. And, in 2010, the Man Mo Temple compound was declared a monument under the Antiquities and Monuments Ordinance.

Or so said the plaque out front that I took a picture of while there.

It wasn’t long before the two of us were heading back to the metro station, passing a supposedly famous fortune teller in a side street, as we did so.

Before too long, we arrived at Hong Kong-Kowloon station. One high speed rail ticket to Shenzhen later, along with passing through immigration and having our bags all scanned, we were back in mainland China.

My sojourn to the mother country was finally coming to an end.

Another One Bites the Dust

On By kyndarisLeave a comment

With less than a week to go before returning to Australia, my trip to China was slowly coming to a close. It was with a wistful heart that I bid goodbye to Shanghai as I boarded the plane to Shenzhen. Less than two hours later (and really, it was only long enough for me to fit in the first Paddington movie), we touched down.

Shenzhen sits on the east bank of the Pearl River. Designated a special economic zone when China began to open back up again in the 80s, it is the third most populous city by urban population in China. Given its a leading global technology hub, this came as no surprise. And given all the skyscrapers – and one that looks suspiciously like The Gherkin in London – it’s a modern marvel.

But, more importantly, it’s a touch north of Hong Kong.

Once we arrived, my cousin, the one who took me to Tianchi with his wife and mum) picked us up. As he drove us to where we were staying, the urban planner in him pointed out key sights in and around the bustling city.

Rather than stay in a hotel, though, my mother and I would be staying two nights at the home of her friend from university. While this feels a little strange to me, it’s important to note the strong connections many in China make during these years living in a shared dormitory. Something that my having grown up in Australia has never been able to replicate.

The bond my mother shares with her friends is almost sisterly in nature. More importantly, it seems to transcend the bounds of distance, time and even generations (as the courtesy was also extended to me – someone who they don’t really know much at all).

Once we had settled, my cousin invited us out for some Spanish fare. Though delicious, I did mourn the lack of churros as a dessert choice.

However, given this leg of the journey was still to tour Hong Kong, my mother and I hopped on a coach down at Shenzhen port that would take us directly to Hong Kong Disneyland the very next day. Given Hong Kong is still considered a special administrative region, we were still required to go through immigration and have our passports stamped before we were allowed to head on through.

Despite all the paperwork, we still arrived at Hong Kong Disneyland before the gates had opened. Once we were through, we headed first to Tomorrowland (right after we managed to find a locker to stuff with our overnight bags). Our first ride of the day, with only a purported wait time of five minutes, was Ant-Man and The Wasp: Nano Battle! Once I’d shown off my excellent shooting skills, we partook of the Iron Man Experience (or, as the ride itself liked to call it, the Stark Expo), followed swiftly by Hyperspace Mountain (the only Star Wars related ride).

Unlike the one in Shanghai, Hong Kong Disneyland had a lot more stalls and rides that were closed. This, however, did not dampen my enthusiasm as my mother and I headed over to Fantasyland. The first item on our list? Mickey and the Wondrous Book. And I must say, the performance was great.

It probably helped that the performers sang in English. But it also helped that when characters spoke in Cantonese, there were also subtitles on display that one could read. While it did detract from watching the people on stage, it was helpful to get a sense of the story. If only they had such facilities in ALL of the parks (something I felt would have been useful while in Japan – and for anyone who didn’t know Chinese Mandarin while in Shanghai). Heavens know what Disneyland Paris will be like but maybe I’ll just nod along and get away with muttering “d’accord: under my breath.

After the show, my mother and I were funnelled into the most hellish ride of them all: ‘it’s a small world.’ As with before, the wait time was minimal as we headed on inside and took a boat journey through the various parts of the world. Admittedly, I did like all the Disney character cameos in each part of the world: from Peter Pan flying up high to Simba jamming out to Hakuna Matata in the Africa section.

From ‘its a small world,’ we headed over to Hong Kong Disneyland’s unique land of Arendelle. After going on Wandering Oaken’s Sliding Sleighs, my mother and I enjoyed a late lunch at the Golden Crocus Inn.

Unfortunately, most of the other rides in and around Arendelle were closed. Whether it was due to the weather, renovations or just to change them up, I couldn’t say. I did, however, manage to catch a glimpse of Elsa teaching the kids in attendance how to use ice magic.

Truly, a magical moment.

Once we had checked out the entirety of Arendelle, my mother and I headed back to Fantasyland and took a gander at all the rides, along with the castle itself. None, though, caught our eye as a vast majority were targeted at young children not looking for anything to pump up the adrenaline.

From there, it was a quick jaunt to Hong Kong’s Adventure Isle section of the park where they also had nestled their own Toy Story land (with much of the same rides as Shanghai Disneyland – except instead of Woody’s Roundup, they had Toy Soldier Parachute Drop). Not keen to fall from any height, my mother and I headed to the next section of the park: Mystic Point.

But while we gawked and gaped at the Garden of Wonders, we ultimately chose to also skip the Mystic Manor (likely because of the hot weather – though cooler than Shanghai) and the need to wait for thirty minutes before we could get in (usually a norm for theme parks but after enjoying such quick wait times earlier in the day – and because we were told Hong Kong Disneyland only takes half a day to get through – we were trying to rush through the end). Instead, we headed into Grizzly Gulch and enjoyed the thrilling Big Grizzly Mountain Runaway Mine Cars ride. With the sudden stops and the drop halfway through, speeding us backwards, I like to think it was one of my mother’s favourites given how much she screamed her head off.

Afterwards, we watched the Lion King festival, a cliff notes version of the actual film, with songs from the movie thrown in. By then, we were thoroughly tired and chose not to go on the Jungle Cruise. That said, I did get to admire Tarzan’s treehouse from the distance.

To my dismay, we also missed out on the Moana performance. Something I only really noticed when we were chosen to complete a survey for Hong Kong Disneyland (although, if I were to ever go again – maybe with a friend or two in tow – it may be worth it. I’m looking at you, bleachpanda!).

Tired, and wanting to get to the hotel we were staying at a reasonable hour, we muddled our way through taking the Hong Kong metro. Though we faced a few difficulties – namely that we had forgotten to change some of our currency to Hong Kong dollars and we had no Oyster card (they didn’t accept credit card payment and neither mainland WeChat pay or Alipay worked), we had to resort to using my mother’s credit cards to tap on and off (my travel money card also wasn’t recognised).

Still, we managed to arrive at Harbour Grand Kowloonwith minimal fuss (besides a short argument on the metro). Once we had checked in and settled into the room, we headed up to the pool and took in the sights of Hong Kong at night.

Not feeling all that hungry for dinner, my mother and I then headed out to grab some late night dessert on the main thorough of Whampoa Garden. Unfortunately, not all stores accepted credit (and we still had no cash), so we had to pick and choose where we could dine.

Still, it was a packed day out and the two of us were glad to retire in our swanky hotel room afterwards.

The Orient Pearl Adventure

On By kyndarisLeave a comment

When people think Shanghai, most think of the picture perfect Bund and the riverside walk beside it. And on my first night in Shanghai (granted, I’ve been to Shanghai before but was limited in playing actual tourist) with my mother in tow, the Bund and Nanjing Road were exactly where we went to take in the sights and sounds. If only it were not so gosh darn hot and humid!

In fact, stepping off the plane, my immediate regret was that we hadn’t already returned to the wintry climes of Australia. The wrongness was further magnified when the rideshare car pulled up at the wrong hotel and we had to wait for another. Even then, the hotel my mother initially booked was less than stellar. It was far from all the amenities we would be heading out to see and looked more rundown than lush and lavish.

Having tired from the time spent with my extended family in Xinjiang, I was chomping on the bit to actually start holidaying in bliss. Once we’d shed our luggage, we headed to the main thoroughfare of Nanjing Road (a forty or so minute drive from the hotel we were currently staying at. During the drive, my mother cancelled our stay for the next three nights and as we enjoyed our dinner, booked a new hotel much closer to where we were actually going. It was also closer to the metro station).

Once we arrived, we set about finding a place to dine. This ended up being at Hongyi Plaza where we enjoyed some simple fare. Though I’d eaten on the four hour flight over, it hadn’t been quite as filling as I’d hoped (that said, I did watch Sonic and Sing 2). After dinner, we headed down the wrong direction – passing by Miniso Land, a SEGA store and animate (a store I thought was Japan only) before realisation struck. Then it was an about turn as we headed back east towards Waitan, the famous waterfront area of Shanghai with its blend of European architecture and iconic skyscraper heavy skyline.

What I had not anticipated, however, were the sheer number of people in attendance. Despite the hour, and the perpetual heat, Waitan and Nanjing Road had an ocean of heaving bodies. Suffice it to say, my mother and I enjoyed a stroll down towards the pier before taking a taxi back to our hotel.

The next day, we woke late. After checking out, we hopped once more into another rideshare car and took it to our new hotel for the rest of our stay in Shanghai. Once we’d unpacked the necessities, it was back out onto the streets.

Our destination? Shanghai Tower.

The tallest building in China, it stands at 632 metres and is situated at the heart of Lujiazui, Pudong. It officially opened in 2015, it began construction in 2008. Equipped with one of the fastest lifts, we reached near the top within a minute or so.

And though my mother and I vacillated between it and the Oriental Pearl TV Tower, Shanghai Tower won out because it it was higher and we would be able to look down at it from the observation deck. Even bleachpanda knows I seek out the high point in every city I visit so I can look out and enjoy a bird’s eye view.

I blame all the time I’ve played the Assassin’s Creed series. Because while I won’t ever be able to do a Leap of Faith, I can still head up high to survey the nearby landscape.

While we were at Shanghai Tower, my mother and I enjoyed a hot drink and a passionfruit red velvet cake. A treat for the trekking we’d done earlier in the morning. But also, who wouldn’t want a nice little snack while looking out on the sprawling city beneath them? If Altair or Ezio could pack a sandwich perked on the top of a roof, I’m sure they’d do so.

Evie Frye would know what I mean. She’s British, after all.

After we had drunk our fill of the sight, mother and I headed back down. Stopping briefly at a 7-11, we enjoyed a quick lunch of sandwiches and vegetarian bao. Alas, it is only at time of writing up this post that I’ve realised we missed out on checking out the flagship Disney store that was also nearby.

Nevertheless, Yu Yuan (also known as Yuyuan Garden) was our next stop.

We stopped by a local temple before wending our way through the shopping complex to the Jiuqu Bridge. What surprised me were the promotional material for a video game also evident on display. But I suppose they were trying to modernise and bring in a younger clientele to the site.

It wasn’t long before we headed into Yuyuan Garden proper. First built in 1559 during the Ming Dynasty, it is located in the northeast part of the Old City of Shanghai in Huangpu District. But while Wikipedia tells me the grounds were designed to be a complex set of different gardens with the Exquisite Jade Rock to serve at its centrepiece, I took more pleasure in admiring the architecture. Of particular interest were the two dragons playing with a pearl.

Once we’d wandered through the entirety of the garden (and did some light shopping), we headed back to the hotel to rest. Before too long, it was dinner time. My mother and I found a place that served xiaolongbaos – a delicacy straight from Shanghai and enjoyed our fill (though they can also be found in abundance in Sydney) – before she soon retired for the night.

I, on the other hand, was keen to keep exploring. Knowing there was an animate and SEGA store in Shanghai, I headed back along Nanjing Road to check out what merchandise they had on offer. Suffice it to say, I spent quite a pretty penny on Like a Dragon badges and a few Persona 5 standees. Then there was a Dungeon Meshi blind box I bought. While I’d had my eyes set on getting a squishable Senshi head, Marcille was who i got instead.

But what took me by surprise was the fact the department store had a MUGIWARA store! And even a NARUTO CAFE (otherwise known as Ichiraku Ramen)!

it was like I’d gone back to Japan! But without bleachpanda next to me, I had to admit the weeb in this instance was me.

Before too long, I returned back to the hotel with a smattering of merchandise in tow. While I could have bought more at the time, DISNEYLAND was waiting.

Murder on the Cableway Express

On By kyndarisLeave a comment

As someone who has always wanted to ape the great Sherlock Holmes, I’ve always liked to sit and observe those around me. While it’s not as quaint as sussing out if someone passes the ‘vibe check’ as per Gen Z slang or as astute as the way the detective is able to deduce the brand of cigarettes a person smokes simply by the ash they find on the side of the road, I like to think I’m a dab hand at reading those around me to a fairly accurate degree.

So it was that when asked who was more inclined to murder the other atop a cableway up on Maya Mountain, which overlooks Tianchi Lake, I felt compelled to offer up my deduction. Suffice it to say, my response seemed to surprise both my aunt and cousin.

But first, some context!

During some downtime between my next grand adventure and the visit I paid to my elderly grandparents, my cousin and aunt saw fit to take me out to see the sights and sounds of Xinjiang. One particular point of interest not too far from the city of Urumqi is Tianchi. Translated to Heavenly Lake, it is an an alpine lake located in the Tian Shan Mountain range.

Tian Shan, itself, is supposedly the seventh highest mountain range in Eurasia (although someone will probably need to fact check me) and runs between China, Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan. According to Wikipedia, its highest peak is Jengish Chokusu and its lowest point is the Turpan Depression. Formed from the collision of the Indian and Eurasion tectonic plates, it is also part of the Himalayan orogenic belt.

My aunt and cousin picked me up via taxi from the hotel I was staying at. Earlier in the day, my mother had left on a short trip to Alar with Popo in Aksu Prefecture. The reason? Popo had wanted to see the sights of the place she had lived in during the Cultural Revolution and see if much had changed. As for me, I was to stay for a few more days in Urumqi until my mother returned and we could finally head out on a proper trip to a few places I wanted to cross off my bucket list.

From the hotel, the taxi took us to the airport where my cousin had rented a hire car. Once we had located the SUV Volkswagen, my cousin offered his wife the option to drive. But though she managed to get it started, he soon took over (deeming her driving subpar). before we’d even left the carpark. This, of course, was before he’d even set the navigation (which was the one thing she wanted as she had no idea where to go).

All throughout the drive, the two of them bickered in the front two seats. According to my aunt, the two of them bantered quite a lot though there were moments my cousin would take it too far.

This, I saw in spades during the hour long drive to Tianchi.

Even as we parked and headed in through the entrance, I quietly watched the dynamic between them. And so, once we up on the cableway and I was asked to use my criminology prowess to decide the likely culprit in a murder, I was quick to indicate it would be the quiet introvert wife who would end up murdering my cousin if he wasn’t careful. After all, I’d endured many a death threat from bleachpanda while we were in Japan and South Korea despite my fairly innocent japes.

This, of course, was during the return trip back down the cableway where we’d bonded over the arduous hike up to the second observation platform and had enjoyed a moment’s rest at the overpriced cafe (to my vast disappointment, hot chocolate was not an option and I had to make do with hot milk instead. Which, to be fair, was better than the caffeinated hazelnut latte).

Once we’d drunk our fill of the wonderful sights and sounds of Tianchi, we hopped back into the car. Curious about my cousin’s claims regarding the less than stellar performance of the hire car in question, I gave it a bit of a whirl in the carpark before deferring to my cousin’s wife.

Now that she was behind the wheel for the second time, however, she refused to relinquish control. The drive back across the highway was a hair-raising experience but not as terrifying as the adrenaline-filled close-calls we had during peak hour traffic within the city of Urumqi itself. There were so many times I thought another car would clip the hire car. Yet, despite the fact I’d kept a tight hand on the handle, we arrived back at my grandparents’ house unscathed.

Still, it might take me some time before I trust her behind the wheel. Though, I have to say, my cousin was probably the more scared out of all four of us in the car. And when he’s stressed, his voice rises. Another sure sign that the reason why the two of them sometimes end up fighting is because he needs to learn some tact when it comes to conversing with his wife.

After all, the adage does go: Happy Wife, Happy Life.

Or maybe they’ll seek a marriage counsellor in the future. Who knows.

Certainly not me.

Suffice it to say, my cousin was not found dead in my aunt’s house the next day. Rather, the two headed out early to catch a flight so they could return to Shenzhen.

I, on the other hand, was required to relocate from the hotel and stay an entire afternoon with little stimulation in my grandparents’ house as officials wished to grant to my grandfather a medal to commemorate 80 years since the end of World War II.

Admittedly, I would have liked to have spent another day with my cousin to see the sights and sounds of Xinjiang but given the responsibilities he had at work, it was a little difficult to extend his break. Even during our trip to Tianchi, he was on a call with his underlings back in the office, painstakingly going over the PowerPoint presentation they had created for some project or other.

A day after, my mother returned with Popo in tow.

The adventure was about to begin.

The Secret of Longevity

On By kyndarisLeave a comment

Despite advances in medical science, living to your 80s is still a difficult feat when life can throw all manner of curve balls. But getting to 99 (or, as many in East Asian countries see it, 100), is still almost impossible in this day and age. Even with filthy billionaires trying to game the system with expensive sauna trips and research into cryogenics.

My grandparents (on my father’s side), it must be said, never had any of that. Theirs was a hard life.

The two of them met during the Korean War (with my grandfather having also fought in the Second World War). Then, after marriage, the two of them were repatriated to the far-flung corner of Xinjiang following Liberation. The two of them faced famine, hard labour and uncertain futures. Yet though they might look fragile from the outside as they shuffle forward and dodder about the past, I can’t help but wonder if they have truly unlocked the secrets of immortality.

The journey over to Urumqi, Xinjiang, was an arduous one that involved a late flight on a Friday evening. It meant arriving in Guangzhou at about 5 AM (local time) in the morning before transferring to another five hour long domestic flight. Akin to flying to Perth from Sydney.

That said, I did travel in luxury. And by that I mean I headed on over to China in business (though not entirely by choice. Given my ageing grandma – on my mother’s side – was also heading over, I was required to upgrade to keep her company). Yes, dear reader. You read it correctly. BUSINESS.

Unfortunately, even with the ability to actually sleep lying down, I felt like I mostly microslept/ napped my way over. There was no proper night’s rest for me. And how could I have enjoyed it when we were woken up for breakfast at 4:30 AM (Australian Eastern Standard Time) before our early arrival. Still, at least I managed to enjoy a Spanish omelette, as well as have a decent lunch on the second flight.

During my flight over to Xinjiang, I was seated next to a fellow Australian. Unlike myself, though, she was visiting the autonomous region purely as a tourist as she had retired and wanted to see the sights around China. Originally from the Guangdong province, she had settled in Melbourne. She had two sons. One, a dentist.

While most of it was just simple small talk, it was nice to have a conversation during the long flight over.

Once we finally landed, I finally reunited with my mother (after nearly 11 months apart). She, along with my uncle (her brother), were there to pick us up and take my grandma (to be referred to as Popo) back to my uncle’s house where she would stay for a vast majority of the trip. My uncle, being quite magnanimous had prepared for us a late lunch. After we’d been fed, and I had toured the house, he drove me and my mother to the hotel we would be staying for a couple of nights.

After all, the main event was still to come on the next day with my grandfather’s 99th (or, in his eyes, his 100th) and my grandmother’s 95th birthday.

Fun fact, the two of them share the same date (at least according to the Lunar calendar)!

Given the momentous occasion, there were quite a number of guests in attendance. Including a once estranged aunt (divorced from my uncle) who looked like she had not changed one iota from the last thirty years. There were also a few other distant family members as my grandfather had previously been married and had a child prior to his marriage to my grandmother.

Then, of course, there were my immediate cousins. Of these, the oldest had brought along his four-month old daughter. The other cousin, though married, was still childless. And then there was me. Single, not sure if she wanted to mingle, and possibly not even straight.

As I was the youngest of the cousins, I was gifted a few presents of my own. Including, of course, a few Pop Mart items. These included a Monsters pendant, a Monsters scented candle, and a Monsters snowglobe. Unfortunately, the one I received had to be confiscated when I flew to Shanghai but I was able to find and purchase a replacement. And so, it is with a heavy heart, dear readers, that I report the loss of my happiness for the greatest evil of all: hope (at least according to Nietzche).

Now, I’ll admit, these family affairs always feel a little extravagant and daunting. I’ll be the first to confess I don’t like them much at all. Especially because I don’t know many of the others in attendance (living in Australia and about a 14 hour flight away does that to you). In fact, I’m probably the least close to my grandparents. So, it feels terrible to show up and claim the money they so freely shower (mostly because I don’t feel like I deserve it).

That said, I suppose to my grandparents, showing up is the greatest gift to them. It’s not so easy to travel all that distance, after all.

And while I may not have grown up under their watchful eye, there’s still a sense that they want to know who I am. Curiosity mixed in, of course, with a dose of familial love. It’s just that there’s such a huge yawning gulf between us in terms of culture and the things I or they might be interested in.

Still, I suppose, too, it’s also good to see how they’re doing too. Even though it’s only snapshot moments with many years between them. Though, that said, they haven’t much changed since the last time I visited. Except maybe they’ve grown a little older and more frazzled with the passage of time.

My fault, most of the time, of course but since the pandemic, I do feel like time has a way of getting away when you want it the most.

In any case, the banquet was a huge success. Though, I have to admit, being put on the spot to give a speech about my grandparents was not on my bucket list. If I’d been given some forewarning, and time to prepare, I like to think I would have given something quite a bit more eloquent. Alas, nerves got the better of me and I only thought to keep it simple (of course, if I’d gone for something a little more complex, my mother would not have been able to interpret for me).

So, though I know my grandparents will never read this (nor will my mother), I believe I ought to leave some parting words:

To my grandfather,

A hundred years is no small feat. Though you’ve known me before I was even born, I have been lucky to have you for as long as I have. Despite the years and distance separating us, knowing that you, and grandmother, are continuing strong even at this late age fills me with hope for the future.

The sign of a life well lived is the indelible legacy one leaves behind. Be they family or the memories friends remember. To have a hundred years of stories, then, is truly remarkable. And what a life you have lived. From the start of the Second World War til our current age of smartphones and AI.

May you remain hale, hearty and keep your mind forever sharp even in your golden years. And, who knows, maybe you’ll have a hundred more to go.

Happy birthday!

On a completely unrelated note, I do hope the billionaires pouring millions of dollars into the longevity business never do find the secret of living forever. It’s certainly not a power I’d want to see in their hands.

Though I like to think it comes from having a daily routine, eating well and their uncanny ability to siphon the lifeforce of two of their three children.