Like many North East Asian countries, Japan was quite insular when it came to trade with western nations. During the Edo period, under the rule of the Tokugawa shogunate, though, nearly all foreign nationals were banned from entering Japan. At Dejima, an artificial island built off Nagasaki, I learned that despite these restrictions, Japan did occasionally trade with the Portuguese. This petered off and the Dutch stepped in. And, in fact, it was Japan’s relationship with the Dutch that saw the nation expand its knowledge and begin to incorporate more Western-style thinking to medicine, science and technology.
Later, as the history books tell us, Japan fully opened up in the Meiji era and beyond.
Waking up early, after enjoying a delicious hotel breakfast, bleachpanda and I headed to Dejima (which, thankfully, was very close to our hotel at Shinchi Chinatown). After paying the entry fee, we meandered through the reconstructed island, peeking into warehouses and exhibits showcasing the history of the place.
These were usually in the form of videos or placards on the side. Unfortunately, most of them were solely in Japanese, making it harder for me to appreciate the items on display – although most were very identifiable.
What stood out to me, as we were making our way through the recreated warehouses, was the focus made on the copper the Japanese traded with the Dutch, and how these were smelted into the form of bars, which were later weighed, before being sealed into their boxes. The sheer number of copper that went through Dejima was extensive.
Then, of course, there were the large number of pottery on display. Like many nations, the Dutch also favoured the iconic blue and white ceramics from China. And in Nagasaki, Japanese artisans were encouraged to imitate the style for the benefit of trade.
All in all, Dejima was a worthwhile place to visit as it served as Japan’s gateway to the wider world despite the restrictions imposed by the Tokugawa shogunate at the time. But it also spoke of how the Western world engaged with other nations in the latter half of the Age of Exploration. Plus, there’s a mini Dejima one can look out over! And there were even models of ships and one of the very first badminton racquets!
From Dejima, bleachpanda and I headed to Glover Garden. What we hadn’t expected when we got there was just how extensive the gardens were. Based on the map of Nagasaki I obtained while at the JR station, I had initially assumed Glover Garden would be a small place and within 10 minutes, I’d have snapped all the pictures I would need. But Glover Garden, to my dismay, was a sprawling complex dedicated to a Scottish merchant, known for bringing news of the Industrial Revolution to Japan.
Thomas Blake Glover, for whom the Gardens are named after, came to Japan in 1859 and founded Glover and Co. three years later. He engaged in trade with the locals and would contribute to the modernisation of Japan including the construction of Kosuge Slip Dock and cooperating with the Saga domain to establish Japan’s first modern coal mine.
More importantly, though, Glover Garden also hosted the oldest Western-style house in Dejima!
By the time we finished touring the gardens, it was nearly 2 PM (far later than I had initially anticipated). And so, wanting to enjoy a decent meal, bleachpanda and I headed to a family restaurant nearby: Bikkuri Donkey. which is known for its hamburger steaks and patties.
Once full, we then headed to Oura cathedral. Alas, it cost 1000 Yen for admittance. Given that bleachpanda and I live in Australia were there are many cathedrals open to the public – and which many might argue are more impressive in design (St Mary’s Cathedral and St Andrew’s) – I couldn’t justify the price for entry. Refusing to pay, bleachpanda and I spent the rest of the afternoon ducking into the local shops that lined the street leading up to the cathedral wherein quite a few purchases were made – although only for small things.
After pulling bleachpanda away from purchasing even more earrings she didn’t need, we retreated back to our hotel to count our spoils before heading out again to check out Amu Plaza, located next to Nagasaki JR station (and where I took a photo of the red dragon chasing the golden ball). As usual, bleachpanda spent more than expected on her small trinket accessories while I had a look at belts because I wanted to replace the one I was wearing as it was falling apart at the seams.
It should be noted that my purchases cost me less than what bleachpanda ended up spending. So, one more point to Kyndaris!
We then had a simple dinner at a restaurant adjacent to the station before heading back to Candeo Hotel for a good night’s rest. After all, we were headed to Hiroshima the next day! And our very first Pokemon Centre stop (I tried to convince bleachpanda to make a pitstop at Fukuoka again but she refused).
The Writing Corner 